AN-J-3 Pattern Leather Flight Jacket, McGregor Sportswear (Doniger), Russet Capeskin, Size 40, WW2/1940s

Genuine private-purchase leather flight jacket built on the AN-J-3 pattern, dating to the 1940s. Made by David D. Doniger and Company of New York and carrying the label of the firm’s civilian brand, McGregor Sportswear.

The AN-J-3 was a 1943 joint Army and Navy project, intended as a single replacement for the Army A-2 and the Navy M-422A. Because of the wartime leather shortage, the leather version of the official specification was effectively never purchased for service, which makes civilian and private-purchase jackets in this silhouette especially interesting to collectors. Alongside its A-2 military contract, Doniger produced a civilian capeskin line under the McGregor label, and this jacket belongs to that line.

The jacket is cut from russet capeskin, a lighter and softer hide than the goatskin used on military contracts. It shows the characteristic features of the style: the signature pointed Doniger collar with a buttoned throat latch, a Talon zipper with bell-shaped slider, a wind flap behind the zipper, buttoned patch pockets with a pen slot, pleated shoulders for movement, gusseted sleeves, a belted back, and ribbed knit cuffs and waistband. Inside there is a vertical pocket with a snap closure. The original McGregor Sportswear woven label is present.

Condition: an honestly worn piece with a beautiful aged patina across the leather. There is general wear and some surface marking consistent with age. Offered as a genuine vintage jacket in worn, but awesome displayable condition.

Provenance: private collection. The connection to a maker of military A-2 jackets, combined with the quality capeskin, makes this an attractive piece for the collector of vintage aviation clothing.